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Mr V's Camino

Day 18 – Hornillos to Castrojeriz – 20.2km

May 1, 2015 by gerryv   

Day 18 elevation profile

Day 18 elevation profile

We treat ourselves with a sleep in and quick breakfast before we set off for the day. The threatening sky comes to fruition with a steady drizzle settling in for the first few hours. We come to a small country road and crossing it sends us into another world – a clay track.

The Meseta has sent us a new demon to deal with. Thick sticky clay begins to cling to our boots and no matter how often we try to clear them, the mud sticks fast. It is like walking with an extra kilogram of weight strapped to each foot. This is our first real test but we get to Hontanas shortly and exchange our stories of the mud around a good hot chocolate or coffee.

The camaraderie of the Camino is wonderful. Eileen from the USA has a truly amazing story. She is completely, physically exhausted walking through the mud as she stepped Ito the cafe. The owner of the cafe brings her a blanket, warm dry socks, and rings her husband to take Eileen to their home and put her up for the night. Not a question was asked for payment, just the satisfaction of helping someone in distress. The true Camino spirit towards the Pilgrims on the way.

After a while we set off again to complete the rest of the day’s walk to Castrojeriz. The sun come out for a short time and are spirits are lifted a little. We walk toward the town and are greeted by the ruins of a great castle on top of the hill above the town as well as a beautiful old convent and church, the Colegiata de la Virgen del Manzano.

Castles in the air.

Castles in the air.

It seems we have treated ourselves to a rather luxurious overnight stay – I don’t think they looked at our boots as we climbed up the stairs to our room – perhaps they should have.

Wipe your feet.

Wipe your feet.


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