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Mr V's Camino

Day 30 – Astorga to Rabanal del Camino – 20.6km

May 13, 2015 by gerryv   

Day 30 elevation profile

Day 30 elevation profile

The morning begins a little cooler than the last three. It calls for a brisk pace out of the beautiful city of Astorga to warm up. Past the city limits we are back into the countryside. As hard as it would be to throw something completely different at us, Spain does not disappoint. Whilst we are back into rolling hills, there are no fields of crops. Instead, we are walking past forest groves of small trees, with with glades of wild flowers of purple, yellow and white.

The kilometres seem to pass quickly as we walk through ancient villages which supported the pilgrims of old. These little villages are empty, it seems, except for the passing pilgrims and the cafe owners. We often find ourselves asking the question “Where are the people?” We do find a nice little albergue with cafe and enjoy a delicious plate of scrambled eggs, bacon and salad for breakfast.

On our way again and our constant companion, the cuckoo, reminds us that he, and maybe a higher being, are keeping an eye on our well-being. However,  he still hasn’t learned how to tell the time. His call is constant – I am sure it is not 100 o’clock. They must have to go to cuckoo school to get a job in a clock.

Getting some relief for aching feet.

Getting some relief for aching feet.

A slight  foot problem develops after about the 17km mark and I welcome a small stream, just outside the town, where I take off my boots and socks and plant my aching feet into the cool mountain water. It is a real relief, so we are able to finish our day without too much more worry.

We check into our lodging and are looking forward the Gregorian chants at vespers, reconciliation and pilgrims’ blessing tonight after dinner. A good relax this afternoon to recover before tackling the mountains again tomorrow.

As I reflect on tomorrow I think about  my pilgrim friends who have been struggling. Placing a stone at the foot of the Cruce Ferro is meant to be a significant part of the Camino. Pilgrims have carried a stone from home to place there. It would be such a shame if people we have met could not do this because of something that has happened to them along the way. Tonight I will be praying for Cathy and David from California, Sharon and Helen from the Central Coast in Australia, Stacey from Italy, Tony from Holland- all who have been struggling with something – that they achieve what they have set out to achieve on their Camino and get the chance to place their stone like we will tomorrow.


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